Binhe is a Zapotec word which means seed. This project uncovers the seed by diving in the vast and rich history that is deeply rooted in Mexican heritage. It explores the complexity of navigating Cultural appropriation within Fashion. We see how materials and techniques have been influenced and changed over time. And how the input of artisans enriches the process with their knowledge and craft.
The project focuses on creating a Couture collection together with Dutch designers and various partners in Mexico. The collection consists of 13 looks, each piece is fabricated with a particular traditional technique and material, like a dress, jacket and top made with palm weaving. There are pieces made with Wixarika bead weaving, showing the intricate use of the craft with detailed patterns and colour combination, this technique also is applied into crochet beading creating three dimensional flowers, leaves and birds. Hammocks, are transformed and intertwined to the body using the material in a different context, creating long flowing dresses. Black clay small sculptures were used to create a Jewellery type top, trouser and shoes featuring birds, handmade beads, and hearts. The collection features a suit and a shirt, embroidered with Tenango embroidery in red hues, which is complimented by beading, this embroidery style and technique is one of the most culturally appropriated taken from Mexican culture.
As part of the design process, the team looks at how these traditional methods and materials can serve as a source of inspiration for contemporary design without resorting to cultural appropriation. The research objective is to develop an appropriate design methodology in partnership with artisans, who add enormous value to the design process. It’s about co-sharing the richness of knowledge and culture by collaborating, acknowledging and compensating.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Violaine Chapallaz
Assistant
Suus Waijers
Art Direction Photoshoot and Fashion Film and Production